Research Task week 4: Art /Design Ethics and Responsibility

Task 1: Critical Analysis

Read the following article regarding photojournalist Jeff Mitchell’s image of refugees crossing from Croatia to Slovenia in October 2015, which was used controversially by the UK Independent Party during the 2016 referendum campaign to leave the European Union. Briefly, conduct your own further investigations to familiarise yourself with how the image was used.

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‘The traumatic look on their faces comes from being kettled’ … refugees cross from Croatia into Slovenia in October 2015. Photograph: Jeff Mitchell/Getty Images

– The people in the photo have been betrayed by Ukip but Ukip used the shot in its Brexit campaign.
– Not only Ukip but the Newspapers also use shots in the wrong context.
– The agency providing the picture didn’t check for what purpose the picture would’ve been used.
– The photographer cannot do anything. I think he should control how people gonna use his photo by himself.

Task 2: Manifesto
Write a brief statement or ‘manifesto’ that defines your purpose as a
designer/artist/photographer/illustrator:

I will have responsibility.
I will design for recycling and upcycling
I will design for ethic production.
I will reduce chemical impacts.
I will design useful things.
I will make the resourceful material choices.
I will use environmental constraints to the project’s advantage.
I will improve the world by using my ethic.
I will stop making crap.

Research case study presentation: Fashion transparency

What is fashion transparency?

Fashion Transparency how much information they disclose about their suppliers, supply chain policies and practices, and social and environmental impact. It requires brands to share this information with the public. It is easier for stakeholders to understand what went wrong, who is responsible and how to fix it. Transparency helps people who are concerned about the human and environmental impacts of what they buy to make more decisions.

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Fashion Transparency poster via Fashion revolution

Why transparency is important in the fashion industry?
At the moment, most of the world lives in a capitalist economy. This means companies must increase sales growth and make profits to succeed –but crucially, not at the expense of peoples working conditions, health, livelihoods and natural environment.

left: ‘Dhaka Saver Building Collapse’ by Rijans via Flickr CC
Right: ‘Site of the Rana Plaza factory collapse’ by Sarah Jay

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People want to know #whomademyclothes

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Images from #whomademyclothes in social media

Consumers don’t want to buy clothes made by people working in danger, exploited, paid poverty-level wages, in polluted environments but there is simply not enough information available about the clothes we wear.

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People are increasingly asking for greater transparency from the fashion industry. In 2018, more than 2.5 million people across the world participated in Fashion Revolution through events, posting on social media, viewing our videos or downloading resources from our website. Over 113,000 posts using our hashtags, including #whomademyclothes, reached 533 million impressions during April 2018 alone – an increase of almost 250% on the previous year.

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Images from #imadeyourclothes in social media.

The fashion revolution invites brands and retailers to show us the people in your supply chain by sharing their stories, and help transform the industry by demonstrating transparency in their supply chain.

And after I started to research about fashion transparency. I found the Everlane: Everlane is an online clothing retailer. The organisation is headquartered in San Francisco, California and has a small team in New York City. It is a leader in pricing transparency.

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Michael Preysman
FOUNDER, EVERLANE

Preysman founded direct-to-consumer brand Everlane, leveraging social media and the internet to bypass middlemen, keeping prices low and margins high. Everlane’s commitment to “radical transparency” and focus on high-quality.

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Preysman attended Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh, where he achieved a dual degree in engineering in economics. After graduating, he worked for three years in private equity at Elevation Partners. With what he describes as a deep passion for design, branding and storytelling, Preysman founded Everlane in San Francisco in late 2010. The brand began by selling high-quality t-shirts with a minimalist aesthetic at a fraction of the cost of other retailers, routing around the inefficiencies of fashion’s traditional wholesale system, which suffers from the high overhead costs of operating physical stores, plus the mark-ups applied by traditional distributors like department stores and boutiques, resulting in basic items such as t-shirts often priced up to eight times what they cost to make. Everlane discloses on its website exactly how much each of its products cost the company to make, alongside Everlane’s retail price and what these products would likely cost a traditional store.

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Example of products from http://www.everlane.com
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This is the target market mood board for Everlane

Firstly, From the fashion revolution campaign. Everlane starts to use the same promoting as every brand. It was the  #knowyourfactories they show every factory that produces the product for the brand including with simple information from each factory such as how they found the factory, how many employees, the materials and about the owner. Most of the factory is in Vietnam, China, America and Italy.
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Saitex: the cleanest denim factory
Preysman founded Everlane in 2011, but it took him a full seven years to get into denim, largely because he struggled to locate a sustainable factory. Brands like Levi’s have been trying to find ways to make its supply chain less polluting by equipping factories with better technology. Everlane, which is relatively small by comparison, had less power to force a factory to alter its existing practices to become more sustainable. The company needed to find an enlightened factory owner who shared Everlane’s values and was already working toward sustainability.

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Standard denim manufacturers waste thousands of gallons of water in the washing process—but not Saitex. The factory’s unique closed system recycles 98% of all water used and when it comes out the other side, it’s so clean you can drink it.
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Inside the Saitex wash house, where jeans are being air-dried and 98% of the water used is recycled.

All denim creates a toxic byproduct called sludge, but at Saitex, the sludge is extracted and shipped to a nearby brick factory. Mixed with concrete, the toxic material can no longer leech into the environment. The resulting bricks are used to build affordable homes. So far, the factory has built ten.

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Everlane’s Future project:

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Choose what you pay from http://www.everlane.com

Everlane has made sustainability a priority, working with ethical factories around the world and being super transparent about what it costs the company to make its clothes (even going so far as offering “Choose What You Pay” pricing that labels how much goes to cover manufacturing costs vs company profit).
1. The first price covers the costs of production and shipping.
2. the second price would go toward all of that, plus overhead for Everlane staffers.
3. The last one would be put toward investment and growth

In a new move, Everlane is partnering with Freight Farms, a Boston-based ag-tech startup that makes ready-to-go in shipping containers, to bring three of their Leafy Green Machines to the Saitex International factory in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, where Everlane’s denim clothing is made. And the company is using money its Black Friday sales to fund the effort, which is part of its ongoing program to improve the lives of its workers.

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The Everlane’s future plan for the organic farm in the factory.

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the goal that shows how much that they want to reach.

The most important that Everlane does for showing how much transparency of this brand is Breakdown the cost of each product because They believe their customers have a right to know how much their clothes cost to make. They reveal the true costs behind all of our products—from materials to labour to transportation.

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image about breakdown the cost of jeans in everlane.com

Everlane: Social media
1. Instagram
@Everlane
Everlane’s account has no shortage of beautiful product imagery, they also feature photos of their customers wearing Everlane clothes, inspiring travel photography, and tips on food and art destinations in different cities around the world.

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Everlane’s Instagram

2. 100% Human Campaign
The 100% Human collection arrives after a season of social unrest, political tensions, and one controversial election that brought to light just how divided the nation really is.”To that end, for every 100% Human piece sold (there are six tees and eight sweatshirts in black, gray, and white colorways, with “100% Human” emblazoned loudly across the front of each), $5 will be donated to the American Civil Liberties Union, the organization that, for almost 100 years, has worked hard to defend the civil rights guaranteed by the Constitution of the United States.

3. Transparency Tuesday on Snapchat and Instagram

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Everlane relays this transparency in many ways, one of which is their tradition of transparency Tuesday. Each week, a post is shared, via Instagram stories, asking followers to ask questions they’d like answered. Members of the Everlane team will then answer these points in a fun and interesting way to help consumers feel closer to the company.

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and in each week they do the poll by voting for the theme in next Tuesday.

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The online poll from Everlane’s twitter

But after Instagram have the stories same as Snapchat, Everlance used Instagram instead because Instagram is more popular and have more followers than Snapchat.

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Analysis:

From my aspect, the key to Everlane branding is they can find their brand essence and motivation: Value. Simple, right? Not so fast. The value must be further explained, packaged and sold. Marketed. Branded. That’s expensive. For an upstart, it’s a significant investment of time to build trust with customers.

Everlane accomplishes the hard work of keeping it simple. It’s what they call “Radical Transparency”. It defines their value and describes the details of what that they want to focus. I think the reasons that made Everlane succeed in the fashion industry is
1. Focus on one product.
2. Tell the story.
3.Share truth in the details.
4. Grow carefully.

1. Focus on one product
The first product of Everlane is the t-shirt. I immediately thought, “So this is it?” It was beautiful but very simple in my opinion. The point idea is the simple product that the customer likely uses—directly to him or her without the added costs of middlemen. But this tee shirt is what we want you to know about today. There are a couple of colour choices. Good colours and Timeless.

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The t-shirt catalogue from everlane.com

 

2. Tell the story.
By selling direct and online only, the strategy at Everlane is based on charging about twice what the product costs to produce. By contrast, They tell the customers a lot about their business with Radical Transparency theme. Radical transparency means sharing the process and revealing the markup. That happens by sharing where each product is made, what it costs to make, and why it costs what it costs.

3. Share truth in the details.
Everlane breakdown the cost of each product for showing the reason why the Clothes are expensive. Everlane shares why. Companies make mistakes. Everlane shows how they’re working and improve their business, step by truthful step.

4. Grow carefully.
Everlane understands that it is more effective to build upon the customers they have than it is to create new customers. It’s cheap and can make loyalty. In 2012, Business Insider profiled the company. At that time, Everlane had 200,000 users and more than 30% but the products repeatedly. Product waiting lists — a result of their strategy — serves as a marker for demand.

Bibliography:
Everlane. (2018). Everlane. [online] Available at: https://www.everlane.com [Accessed 5 May 2018].

Fast Company. (2018). Everlane’s Quest To Make The World’s Most Sustainable Denim. [online] Available at: https://www.fastcompany.com/40455752/everlanes-quest-to-make-the-worlds-most-sustainable-denimhttps://www.fastcompany.com/40455752/everlanes-quest-to-make-the-worlds-most-sustainable-denim [Accessed 5 May 2018].

Heath, A. (2018). How Everlane brings you behind the scenes with Snapchat. [online] Business Insider. Available at: http://uk.businessinsider.com/how-everlane-uses-snapchat-2016-2?r=US&IR=T [Accessed 5 May 2018].

Howarth, D. (2018). Everlane opens permanent store in New York’s Soho. [online] Dezeen. Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2017/12/01/everlane-opens-permanent-store-prince-street-soho-new-york/ [Accessed 5 May 2018].

Instagram + Marketing. (2018). Everlane: Transparency Tuesday. [online] Available at: https://instamarketing876.wordpress.com/2017/09/12/everlane-transparency-tuesday/ [Accessed 5 May 2018].

The Business of Fashion. (2018). Michael Preysman on Iterating Everlane and ‘Fixing’ Fashion Retail. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/founder-stories/michael-preysman-on-iterating-everlane-and-fixing-fashion-retail [Accessed 5 May 2018].

Mock Interview questions – Practice and research

Because of next Monday, We will have the mock interviews with Anya. so this is the question that Jo gave it to us for preparing ourselves before do the mock. and I have the real interview with Exposure London. It is a massive communication and branding agency.

  • What can you tell me about yourself?
    My name is Fern, I ‘m 24 years old. I’m currently studying in Master of fashion promotion. So I interested in branding and social media promoting. Before I came here. I worked as a designer in Thailand for 1 year and graduated my BA in Fashion Design as well. At this moment, I would love to find more experiences in fashion promotion field.
  • What do you know about us? (imagine the ideal job)
    Exposure is a communications agency that connects between brand, culture and consumers. You create the strategy form research and planning and do the multi-channel communications such as film, photo and social media. And Exposure has three offices in London, New York and Tokyo for being a global network company.
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  • Can you list your strengths?
    I think my strength is my based skill due to my education and all of my experiences.
    I quite confident with my creative eye and I think I good at Adobe programmes such as Photoshop, Illustrator and Indesign too. And because I worked in a company before, which help me work well with customer and team member.
  • What weaknesses do you have?
    As in my BA, I used to leave assignments until the last minute but with the workload in real life. I learned to schedule my time very effectively.
  • Why should we consider hiring you?
    I think with my experiences background in the fashion industry and my ability make me a good match for this position.
  •  What makes a good team player?
    the keys point of the good team player is communication and respect becauseGreat team players have to communicate their idea clearly and respect the views and opinions of others on the team.
  • Why do you want to work here?
    Because I did research on your work in every campaign and branding that you did always relevant to the heritage and culture of each brand. I think this is the best things that make branding successful and I want to learn it from your company.
  • Can you describe a designer in your field, you feel is successful in communicating an idea or concept? And why?
    Vetements
  • Tell me about a time when you have had a multitude of responsibilities and deadlines, and how you worked through those situations.
    In this situation, I will make a list. and work in order by thinking about which tasks are urgent and how important each task is.
  • Which creative medium would you love to pursue, but have not yet?
    I would like to try on short film because I just studied Premier Pro and After affect programme in the last semester. and it is quite interesting for me because the film is kind of important digital media for communication.
  • What skills do you possess that best prepare you to be a successful designer? Give an example of how you have developed one or more of these skills.
  • What attributes do you bring to this position that will enable you to be a significant creative force in our company?
  • What are your technical and non-technical skills, as related to your specialism?
     technical skills 
    – Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator, Indesign, Premiere Pro and Lightroom.
    – Sewing, drawing and embroidering.
    non-technical skills
    – Good analytical skill
    – Creativity
    – Make decisions under pressure
    – Fast learner
    – Flexibility
  • Discuss one of your projects, from beginning to end. What were some of the challenges? What were the solution and result?
    Sugar project
  • Which design-related computer programs do you feel the most comfortable with? Please give examples of how you have used these programs.Adobe Photoshop, illustrator
  • Tell me about a project you designed: What was the objective? How did you approach the design project? Was it successful in meeting its goal and what were the outcomes?
    My graduate project in BA

  • Is there anything that you would like to ask me?– What can you tell me about your new product or plans for growth?
    – What’s your favourite part about working here?

 

Research Task week 3: Sustainability in contemporary​ art

Don’t Buy This Jacket, Black Friday and the New York Times!

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They said It’s time for a company to address the issue of consumerism and do it head-on. The big question for this campaign is Why they run an ad in The New York Times on Black Friday telling people, “Don’t Buy This Jacket”?

The most challenging, and important, an element of the Common Threads Initiative is this: to lighten our environmental footprint, everyone needs to consume less. Businesses need to make fewer things but of higher quality. Customers need to think twice before they buy.

Due to everything that we make takes something from the planet we can’t give back. So, Patagonia launched the campaign for represent the each piece of Patagonia clothing, whether or not it’s organic or uses recycled materials, emits several times its weight in greenhouse gases, generates at least another half garment’s worth of scrap, and draws down copious amounts of freshwater now growing scarce everywhere on the planet.

They said they placed the ad in the Times because it’s the most important national newspaper and considered the “paper of record.” They’re running the ad on Black Friday, which launches the retail holiday season. They should be the only retailer in the country asking people to buy less on Black Friday.

From my aspect, It’s part of our professional part as a designer to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.

It would be hypocritical for us to work for environmental change without encouraging customers to think before they buy. To reduce environmental damage, we all have to reduce consumption as well as make products in more environmentally sensitive, less harmful ways. It’s not hypocrisy for us to address the need to reduce consumption.

Nevertheless, Patagonia is a growing business – and they want to be in business a good long time. The test of our sincerity (or our hypocrisy) will be if everything that they sell is useful, multifunctional where possible, long lasting and beautiful.

Why the provocative headline if we’re only asking people to buy less and buy more thoughtfully? because they want to call attention to the issue in a strong and clear.They used to use the line “Don’t Buy This Shirt” several years ago in a catalogue essay, to strong response. It is our hope that this headline will prompt as many people as possible to read the full ad, then go to our website to take the Common Threads Initiative pledge.

Common Threads Initiative of Patagonia brand website:

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REDUCE :
We make useful gear that lasts a long time
You don’t buy what you don’t need

REPAIR :
We help you repair your Patagonia gear
You pledge to fix what’s broken

REUSE :
We help find a home for Patagonia gear you no longer need
You sell or pass it on (eBay is a great place to start)

Screen Shot 2561-02-27 at 00.53.44they have Patagonia site on eBay for selling the product that we don’t want it anymore.

RECYCLE :
We will take back your Patagonia gear that is worn out
You pledge to keep your stuff out of the landfill and incinerator

REIMAGINE :
TOGETHER we reimagine a world where we take only what nature can replace

I think the strongest from the advertising campaign is Patagonia can show the growth of brand building while reducing environmental impact. So make this a big brand moment.


Research Task week 2: Innovation

The jammer coat by coop himself(l)au blocks radio waves for device privacy

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A Vienna-based architecture called coop himmelb(l)au developed the ‘CHBL jammer coat’ for the ‘abiti da lavoro’ exhibition at the Triennale design museum in Milano. according to CHBL,  the oversized tech garment ‘enables its user to disappear: Google cannot find you anymore.’ The piece of clothing has been designed using metallic fabrics, which have the inherent ability to block radio waves and signals, shielding the wearer against tracking devices such as GPS.

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Himmelblau co-founder, CEO, and design principal Wolf D. Prix has said that the coat’s wave circle pattern “gives an illusion of strange multiple body parts, which hides and frees the individual physicality.” The oversized poncho is about the shapeless, though we like the dotted swirls of grey and black. This is kind of the optical tricks.

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  • The positive development that technology has enabled in the fashion industry?
    The most interesting in the Jammer Coat is the parallel between transportable technology and wearable technology: The privacy needs/desires and people’s action’s to carry out those desires.  Fashion in many ways acts as an interesting metaphor for people’s preferences when it comes to the internet. Specific services and routines are trendy and fashionable. Others are more selective about what technology they trust and use, amassing a set of tools and apps that seem attractive to like-minded people.
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  • The negative?
    The Jammer coat has a contrasting idea about the outcome design because they said they develop this wearable technology cloth for the privacy needs.But the silhouette, printed and detailed of this poncho is too attractive to walk on the street in daily life. It also looks very much like a big warm duvet. Which might be useful for when you want to wrap up in bed and avoid having any contact
  • Where is technology in fashion field heading?
    I think the fashion industry is heading to the wearable technology era.Research :
    Wearable technology, wearables, fashionable technology, wearable devices, tech togs, or fashion electronics are smart electronic devices (electronic device with micro-controllers) that can be worn on the body as implants or accessories.Wearable devices such as activity trackers are a good example of the Internet of Things, since “things” such as electronics, software, sensors, and connectivity are effectors that enable objects to exchange data (including data quality) through the internet with a manufacturer, operator, and/or other connected devices, without requiring human intervention.Wearable technology has a variety of applications which grows as the field itself expands. It appears prominently in consumer electronics with the popularization of the smartwatch and activity tracker. Apart from commercial uses, wearable technology is being incorporated into navigation systems, advanced textiles, and healthcare.
  • What lies in the possible future?
    Maybe in the future, we could create the invisibility poncho with the new technology of fabric. Apart from it can block the radio waves from every device it also makes the wearer invisible like the cloak in Harry Potter movie.


bibliography:

En.wikipedia.org. (2018). Wearable technology. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wearable_technology [Accessed 14 Feb. 2018].

Fleig, S. (2018). Himmelb(l)au’s Jammer Coat Is A Digital Invisibility Cloak. [online] Co.Design. Available at: https://www.fastcodesign.com/3032048/himmelblaus-jammer-coat-is-a-digital-invisibility-cloak [Accessed 14 Jan. 2018].

Shubber, K. (2018). This signal-jamming coat lets its wearer ‘disappear’. [online] Wired.co.uk. Available at: http://www.wired.co.uk/article/chbl-jammer-coat [Accessed 10 Jan. 2018].

 

 

Research Task week 1: Vision of ‘The Future’

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Arkangel” is the second episode of the fourth series of anthology series Black Mirror. It was written by Charlie Brooker and directed by Jodie Foster. The episode first aired on Netflix, along with the rest of series four, on 29 December 2017.

The story is about Marie takes her three-year-old daughter to the park. While Sara explores the playground and befriends a cat, Marie gets to talking to another mother. Within a matter of seconds, she loses sight of Sara and runs through the park in a panic. Fellow park-goers and neighbours join in the search and Sara is eventually found near the train tracks, where she followed the cat. She is unharmed and seemingly oblivious to the danger she put herself in, but Marie simply cannot recuperate from the shock.

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Determined to keep Sara safe at all times – regardless of the cost – she decides to try the Arkangel, a security system designed to allow parents to monitor their children.

 

At first, Marie is only interested in tracking her daughter’s whereabouts, but with the many other options offered to facilitate Sara’s life, Marie’s protectiveness soon reaches new heights.It all starts innocently enough, but later Sara is cannot read social cues such as anger, sadness and even pain, for these are emotions she has never actually witnessed filter-free. leading to a violent confrontation with her mother.

 

  • In what social context was it produced?This movie was produced from the social context about “the downside of parental control” The episode’s emotional between mother and daughter relationship destroyed by the mother does not allow her child to live her own life. It’s a common theme in stories about parenting.
  • How is the future characterised?It is quite negative and feels very possible to happen because black mirror always comes up with the ideas of near future that we should fear.

According to the reading text that Harriet give it to us. The Lubomir Dolezel in Heterocosmica: Fiction and Possible Worlds. “Our actual world is surrounded by an infinity of other possible worlds”  the most interesting part in this movie is how things are now, how they can enter the realism into the fiction Due to the good fiction is not just for entertainment but for reflection, critique, provocation and inspiration.

  • It is a dystopian movie !!!
    The definition of the dystopic world is quite literally a bad place. Quite often this is interpreted as a grim future, dirty, dark and unimaginably awful. Yet other times, the future has been envisioned as the exact opposite of gritty and dark and has instead been portrayed as antiseptic and devoid of character, a whitewashed veneer of opulence to hide humanity’s loss of freedom or control.
  • They represented the movie through the innovation of technology.
    The innovation that they represented is “THE ARKANGEL CHIP DEVICE” This device isn’t just only showing a spot on a map like a GPS on this day, Parent can access their kid’s viewpoint – seeing everything that they see via a tablet monitor and being alerted whenever they are in discomfort, with the ability to block out porn images, rode words and any violations with a parental lock.

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Bibliography:

Dunne, Anthony & Fiona Raby (2013) ‘ A Methodological Playground: Fictional Worlds and Thought Experiments’, ch. 5 of Speculative everything: Design, Fiction, and Social Dreaming. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.

Avclub.com. (2018). Cite a Website – Cite This For Me. [online] Available at: https://www.avclub.com/black-mirror-explores-the-downside-of-parental-controls-1821634112 [Accessed 6 Feb. 2018].

Dystopianfilms.com. (2018). What is Dystopian? A Note on Classification | DystopianFilms.com. [online] Available at: http://dystopianfilms.com/2010/10/18/what-is-dystopian-a-note-on-classification/ [Accessed 6 Feb. 2018].

Little White Lies. (2018). Black Mirror ‘Arkangel’ review – Big parent is watching you. [online] Available at: http://lwlies.com/articles/black-mirror-arkangel-episode-review/ [Accessed 6 Feb. 2018].